Identifying Your Curl Type

Identifying your curl type should be simple but if you have curly hair of any type, you know that often, your hair and taking care of it is anything but. Curly hair often has a mind of its own and most people have multiple curl types/pattern and textures which can make styling even more complicated. Having multiple hair types/curl patterns is a natural occurrence, however, heat and other forms of damage can alter your curl pattern, usually making curls looser than normal. Yes, I know, it’s complicated. Some feel that the hair typing system as it was envisioned is limited and this may be true. However, it can still be useful in helping you select the products most likely to benefit your hair and create the styling results you seek.

The most popular hair/curl typing system classifies hair according to numbers and letters.

A simple breakdown:

1. Straight hair -type 1s

2. Wavy hair – type 2s

3. Curly hair -type 3s and

4. Coily hair -type 4s

Each group is then further subdivided from A to C based on the width of your wave, curl, or coil pattern i.e. how loose or tight the curl or wave of the hair is. Type As have the widest pattern size (largest curl), type Bs are in between, and type Cs the smallest (tightest curls) of the three.

Knowing your hair type provides an understanding of how to care for and style, in order to better appreciate its strengths, vulnerabilities and versatility. When trying to identify your hair type, it’s best to do so on hair that is freshly washed or at the very least, soaking wet, but remember, it’s possible for you to have many curl types, in fact it’s more likely to be the case than not. This could be as extreme as having small sections of your hair that are more or less straight nestled amongst your curly strands.

For the purposes of this article we will focus on type 3 and 4 curl types which tend to be the most difficult to identify.

Curly hair – type 3

Type 3 curly hair has curls that can be anywhere from loose barrel curls to tight ringlets. Type 3 hair is shiny and prone to frizz. Lotions and creams are usually enough for smoothing and defining the curls of type 3 hair whereas, gels and custards are usually needed to define the tighter coils of type 4 hair.

Type 3A

Type 3A curls tend to be well defined, shiny and large, loose curls. These curls are best maintained with lightweight products that boosts moisture and tame frizz. Products that are too heavy can weight curls down rather than allowing them to have movement and volume. Once styled, hair should be left alone in order to prevent frizz. But in all honestly, this is a good rule of thumb for styling any curly hair type.

Type 3B

Type 3Bs curls are well defined, springy ringlets or corkscrew type curls also with a natural shine. This hair texture can get dry, so look for styling products with moisturizing ingredients to help hair maintain moisture. 3B hair is naturally bouncy and voluminous and benefit from products that are lightweight but rich in humectants.

Type 3C

3C curls are tight and resemble corkscrews that are densely packed together, giving way to lots of natural volume. As with all curly hair types, frizz can be an issue with this type of curl, which is much more prone to dryness than other type 3 curls. Focus on moisture and the rich creamy products that can provide it. Type 3C curls also benefit from co-washing which helps maximize moisture, helping curls to pop.

Coily Hair – Type 4

Coily hair loses moisture easily, making it prone to dryness. It is spongy in texture and can be soft and fine or coarse and wiry. Strands form small, tight curls and shrinkage is sadly, inevitable. Frequent deep conditioning is a benefit to type 4 hair.

Type 4A

People with hair type 4A have dense springy, S-shaped curls. Thick, creamy products that are full of moisture are your hair’s best friends and gels are the way to go for defining your curls and getting them to pop. Co-washing works great for type 4 curls of all types since it helps fight dryness and curls are more defined when moisture is optimized. Leave-in conditioners are essential for type 4 curl types because they also help keep hair hydrated and fight dryness.

Type 4B

4B strands are densely packed and can bend in sharp angles like the letter Z. Applying product by shingling it through the hair is the best way to support curl definition and elongation. Layering products or using thicker products that add weigh to the hair strand helps to combat frizz and reveal the pattern of the curl.

Type 4C

4C curls are much like type 4B curls, but the tightly coiled strands making them the most vulnerable of all hair types. It can be difficult to identify the curl pattern of type 4c hair since the strands are so tightly packed together and on themselves. 4c hair undergoes significant amounts of shrinkage, sometimes shrinking down to only a quarter of its true length.

Shrinkage and dryness are major concerns for all type 4 hair types though both are much more severe an issue for type 4c, generous amounts of leave-in conditioners, moisturizers and rich, thick, creamy products to add weight to the hair to elongate the strands. Thick oils and heavy creams can also help lock moisture into type 4c hair so that it can thrive and withstand gentle manipulation.